
As a 40 something chartered accountant with a hectic job in London, the attractions of Croatia were strong. The London job, after two years of high excitement, was turning into a bit of a treadmill so I didn't take much persuasion from my partner to go with him to Croatia.
That was 4 years ago and whilst I can't say, even after all that time, that Croatia feels like home, it's certainly got plenty to offer. It is a great place to live but doing "good" business is challenging in the extreme.
You can't afford to be too rigid in your outlook and "going with the flow" and a portfolio career are the name of the game. So I've reinvented myself as a writer and journalist and done quite a few other "odd jobs" on the way. The 9 to 5 (and a lot more) work ethic is hard to lose after so many years but the whole point of a fairly fundamental change such as this is to try and redress the work/life balance. Sometimes it's easy to pack up in the afternoon and go out on our little fishing boat. On other occasions the hours seem just as long as in London without the same reward.
My advice to anyone else contemplating such a move is to stick with it for at least two years. It takes a long time to establish new roots, particularly in a non english speaking country, and it takes a while to build up good contacts. Perhaps contradictory to the "give it your best shot advice" is the cautious voice that says "don't burn your boats" in your home country until you're sure you've made the right move. If you sell a property in London for example, there's a good chance you'll never be able to afford to move back later on. I count myself very lucky, amidst all the life and logistical changes, to have been able to continue working with an enlightened organisation in the UK, over seventeen years, that has truly adopted flexible working practices. That has helped enable me to make a soft landing in Croatia. In return, I hope I have helped enable them them to make their own transition .
We've pretty well thrown our original business plan into the bin and, in doing so, have risen to a number of new challenges. Our cruising guide on the Dalmatian coast is just about ready to go to the printers after lengthy research and many, many hours of writing. Working with Time Out Publications, over the past two years, on their Visitors Guide to Croatia, has been a breath of fresh air. The magazine is insightful, forward thinking and highly informative, and the management and editorial team are a joy to work with.
Working with the locals is a bit of a roller coaster ride. We've found a few extremely straightforward, efficient and reliable contacts and a number with whom you're never quite sure where you stand. We foreigners are still not too plentiful here and it does take time to build good business relations. The legacies of the communist system are still very much evident in certain places and it will take time for the business environment to open up.
Personal relationships also take time to build and, conversely to business ones, we've almost unilaterally been received kindly and warm heartedly by our Croatian neighbours. The expat community is growing and, on the whole, they're a delightful bunch who share many of the frustrations and much of the excitement and pleasure of working and living in Croatia.
9 comments:
Dear Ms. Cody,
Your blog is absolutely lovely. I'm an American Croatian, my parents are Croatian, father originally from Dugi Otok and mother from the old city part of Dubrovnik. I read about how your adjusting to "Croatian life" and I commend you on your drive and persistance as I know how unusual some things must seem to you at times.
For the last 3 years I've spent my summers in Zadar and while everything about the exterior appearance of things is shatteringly beautiful, sometimes you don't know whether you're coming or going when dealing with the locals.
However, good luck and, as we say where I'm from, keep on keeping on.
My dad is an artist educated in Split's commercial art school in the early 60's. The building that was the school is now a convent, I don't know exaclty what kind. He now does fine art oil paintings and a lot of them are from the village where he was raised on Dugi Otok.
Please do take a look at my blog: http://mirkovichfineart.blogspot.com, or my dad's website www.mariomirkovich.com if you're interested in some artwork of Croatia by a Croatian. I hope you enjoy it and feel free to email me if you have any questions.
Cheers,
Martina M.
Hi Jane,
As a "wild card" from Perth Western Australia, i packed up our large family home - together with my Croatian born husband & almost 3yo son & flew to Zagreb with Emirates - such a great airline!
We have just spent almost 8 glorious months travelling the whole Croatian region & then as far as Venice, Italy, across to Slovenia, thru Hungary, Bosnia & Serbia & finally settled after 5mths in a brilliant little town called Drvenik.
Drvenik is located on the Makarska Riviera, between Split (2.5hrs)& Dubrovnik towns (2.5hrs).
We stayed in Drvenik 3 times then we looked & found a long term rental owned by an amazingly kind young family.
We will hopefully be moving here sooner rather than later, having rented our home out in Australia in the long-term to business people from overseas.
I must say IM HOOKED - and sadly (3mths ago i would burst into tears talking about going home to oz) we are to depart for our homeland in 3weeks.
I am truly torn, however, we have family & friends eagerly awaiting our return who want to hear about our wonderful travels.
Thanks God for Facebook i say - as i wasnt too good with the postcards but i did manage about 40albums on my facebook site to keep everyone very happy!
My husband has embraced the return to the land of his childhood.
Our son is about to celebrate his 3rd birthday here - & has picked up the language very well.
I have done quite well myself although am still challenged by the older people & long sentences & conversations...
Short statements & good gestures work well for me! ;)
On the whole i have coped very well, although at times dealing with authorities, in particular, can be harrowing - mainly because they sometimes yell at you to make their point strong...
Alas we survived & we will take home with us the BEST memories of an experience any young couple under 40, & with a toddler could ever wish for.
It has strengthened our family & taught us massive independence. We are proud to say - we did it! Many of our family & friends doubted our ability to "go the distance", & even to do the trip to begin with - which was sad...
I just put this down to the fact that they dont "have the courage to live the life of your dreams" and that is what we did - fulfilled a dream...
Im sad to say goodbye to what i refer to as "my new home" - but i can assure you, i will be back!
We wish to buy some property & continue to live the Croatian life... SOON, hopefully with another child on board...
Thank you Croatia - you have embraced us, warmed our hearts & given us such precious memories to keep forever.
I dont say goodbye, just farewell for now.
Until We Meet Again,
Love Always, Kyles xxxxxx
PS also LOVE Island PAG - so so many wonderful beaches & a new place to discover everyday...
PPS thank you so much for the tips on the chinese restaurant - im am craving chinese so much LOL! ;)
Hi Jane,
I have moved to Croatia from the UK 2 months ago.
I am currently applying for residency. I have received my UK Criminal records documents and I am looking for a translation and notary office to complete my application. Do you know anyone you could recommend? I live in Zabok, which is 30 minutes from Zagreb. I have tried the British Embassy website but cannot get though to anyone.
Thank you
Hi Redtank
I'm afraid all my contacts for this sort of thing are in Split. However I recall that last time I did this we had the documents apostilled in the UK. We used ASAP documents but I couldn't get onto their site today so try this one http://www.apostille-mk.co.uk who, like ASAP seem to get all the documentation in a state where it is acceptable by the Croatian authorities.
Dear Jane,
still a lot to read in your blog, it has the same feel as mine, also being a foreigner (from Holland), having a little place in Svinisce, behind Omis.
Unfortunately still spending (just the minimum) time in Holland, most of the time we live in Hrvatska, leaving Holland behind for just the same reasons as you.
Please see my blog, in english, and you'll get the picture.
http://svinisce.blogspot.com/
Pozdravi, Pim.
Thank you very much for your comment. Your blog is lovely and I'm about to have a long read!!
Hi again!
Just wanted to see today who is behind the blog and I'm pleasantly surprised with the story.
First of all I wish you and others who commented good luck with your new life in Croatia! You raised some good points that are, in my opinion, rule of thumb for anyone-anywhere and for that reason I would like to add two more things.
As someone who left Croatia 18 years ago I can say that many years past until we cooled down and stopped thinking daily about returning, especially after every visit back home. When it comes to finding a home after the big move, I always remember what I was told by someone who I briefly meet after arrival in a new land; "Longer you stay away more of a foreigner you become and here, you'll be always a foreigner. Time does not wait on us, people change, things change...". No, it has nothing to do, in my case, in a new land, with discrimination, language barrier, etc., it's just a fact and still present inner feeling.
Second would be, people. Do not get me wrong, I am very happy that in 1990 we voted overwhelmingly against communism and despite of all that fallowed that Croatia is independent too, but, more or less, people who rule are the same and that's why things aren't smooth. People who changed are your neighbors, people at the market, store, work, people you meet on the street, they become westernized and now keep to themselves. Leaving Croatia as 20 year old this was first thing I noticed in a new land and still can't understand. When I came back for a visit this is first thing I noticed that changed. Now in Croatia everyone also lives behind closed doors, life become society that rushes before 9am, in between 9-5pm, after 5pm and never stops, just like the west. Would it anything change if there is more cash in the pockets of Croats? I do not think so. This is way of life, under pressure of paying bills in the consumers society and that does not leave much time or will for life that could be, especially in Croatia that had that too, just as Alan at Secret Dalmatia told me other day about life in Split 30 years ago.
Once again, good luck!
Thanks again Kris for your interest, and also for your insight. I think you are spot on with your comments and it's a shame that the west has "got to" Croatia in many ways. However in some places we were made so welcome it was like being part of the family and I think, if my Croatian was better, I would do better as well so I must work on that. This year I have spent a lot of time in England and just visited Croatia for long periods, which gives me the best of both worlds - none of the day to day bureaucracy but a chance to see friends, roam around and take in the scenery. I miss Croatia very badly when I stay too long in England but I guess my heart is in my homeland though quite a big piece of my soul in Dalmatia. Croatia has certainly helped me appreciate the English countryside more and get a more balanced way of life when I am here. We're beginning to go full circle in England - appreciating the more straightforward way of life of old which we've all but lost so are having to reinvent. Fortunately it's a lot fresher in the minds of Croatians so I hope they learn from us and keep it!!
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